Warp and Weft Knitting

There are two types of knitting:

Weft knitting is done by a single yarn moving across the fabric. Garments knitted by hand or machine are weft knitted.	Warp knitting has a yarn on each stitch running up the fabric

Gauge: This is the name given to the number of stitches per 1.5 inches (36mm)

60-120 gauge – socks & tights
24 gauge – A twin set

Warp and weft knitting have different properties:

Weft Knitting	Warp Knitting
Comes undone easily Ladders and runs Curls when cut Stretchy Loses its shape Has a right and wrong side Example of fabric: - Jersey - Stockinet	Difficult to undo Does not ladder or run Lies flat when cut Stretchy but stable Keeps it’s shape well Both sides look alike Examples of Fabric: - Tricot - Lock Knit

 

Knitting machines can do both warp and weft knitting

Most industrial machines are circular machines that produce tubular lengths of fabric. These are cut and the edges sealed before being processed. They have no selvedge.

Flat bed machines produce flat widths of fabric.

Knitted garments can be produced by either the fully fashioned or the cut and sew method.

Cut and sew: The garment sections are cut out of blanket fabric (the name given to the run of fabric) and then sewn together. This method is increasing in popularity because production is cheaper.